Potus, Flotus, Doofus, Dingus, Rapist and Sadist
Potus, Flotus, Doofus, Dingus, Rapist and Sadist
To set this up, I’m a service connected disabled veteran, but since the VA Hospital botched up at couple of medical procedures for me in the late 70s, it has always been a priority to always have the best available insurance for my family, and not go to VA Hospital. In my working years before retirement, I always had good insurance. After I retired, Texas had a assigned risk pool, where individuals could pay twice the Small Business Group Rates, but it was still good insurance.
Then came Obamacare. The first year, I had to replace all of my doctors. because none accepted the best Obamacare offered. Last year the insurance was worst yet, and my family was cancelled mid year, not allowed to have insurance for the rest of year, despite three appeals. And then was fined $3000 from the IRS for not having insurance, which I wasn’t allowed to have.
So this year, I’ve had the worst insurance of my life, despite being the best offered on Obamacare. All year long its been a fight of having virtually every procedure and prescription denied. My out of pocket for insurance and premiums and co-pay/no-pay is almost $50,000 this year.
Six weeks ago my doctor ordered a CT Scan of my lungs. First it was rescheduled because the doctor didn’t submit the proper form. Then rescheduled because Insurance company was two weeks backlogged on approval. Then it was denied because I get non-smoker insurance rates (haven’t smoked in 30 years) and the CT was to see if I have lung cancer. We worked through that and I finally got approved. Then Tuesday was cancelled because the Imaging tech called in sick. So today, more than six weeks after the doctor order, I went to have the CT Scan.
I go in, and at registering I’m told my co-pay is $300. I tell her that I met all of my deductible, and she says that she sees that, but my co-pay from the “negotiated rate” is still $300 for CT Scan and doctor reading. So I catch onto the key phrase of “negotiated rate”, and ask what that is. She answers $800 something for the CT Scan and $200 For doctor to read. So I ask how how much would I be paying if I self paid. She said $85 For CT Scan and $60 for the doctor to read. I thought I misheard her, and I asked “so if I go through insurance just my cost is $300, but if I pay cash its $145 total”? She answered “Yes”. So I had her take my insurance information out and I self paid.
This is how screwed up Obamacare has ruined Health Insurance. They spend so much time on hold verifying insurance and filling out so much paperwork and then waiting for payment; and it is heavily subsidizing those who don’t pay shit for insurance (and lets not forget abortions, birth control, child dentistry, drug rehab…. that I’m paying for) that most procedures are cheaper on self pay than your deductible with using your health insurance.
Start asking questions on how much self pay is compared to Insurance Co Pay and you might save a Hell of a lot of money. Share this with your family and friends.
The Maniacal Ravings of Dave Schultz page on Facebook had been active for eight years, and recently increased its followers to over 8,000. However, Saturday the Facebook Gestapo took it down as being Pro Trump, Pro Life, Pro America, Pro Christian, Pro Capitalism, and Pro Republic appears to violate the Community Standards Agenda of the Anti Trump, Anti Capitalism, Anti American, Anti White Hetero Sexual Male Gestapo deciding what people should be viewing.
I just bought a business franchise (more on that another day) so for the last three weeks I’ve been busy with doing Due Diligence, traveling to meet the Franchiser, meeting with my lawyer and accountant, setting up the business entity, and other business crap – so my time at the shop has been a little limited.
Today I dyed the door panels to my Magnum, as they were looking pretty ratty. So I took them off
Wiped down with wax and grease remover, scuffed, and masked off the courtesy lights and trim.
I generally start with two light coats, and then one wet coat. That worked well for the hard plastic and carpet, but the soft vinyl would have parts that looked like it was soaking it up. It was splotching with parts being gloss and parts being flat. I thought I’d must done something wrong in prep, but it finally came out OK by the time I’d hit the soft vinyl another six or seven times with a wet coat, waiting about 2-3 minutes between. It took a full 12oz can for first panel.
Same deal with second panel. I made sure I’d rubbed off all of the wax and grease remover, and let it air dry for an hour. However, same deal. Hard plastic and carpet looked good after two light and one wet coat, but I had to keep hitting the soft vinyl with more wet coats where the dye dries into a flat splotch. When the soft vinyl finally was a consistent gloss, I had just enough left in the can to give the entire soft vinyl an even wet coat instead of just dressing up the splotches. So figure a can per door panel.
I think it came out looking pretty good. The gloss makes the soft vinyl look a little loose, but I’m hoping that between clipping back to the door and the door handle that it will tighten the look a little.
Last week I sold the Jerico DR4 that I use to run in my Red Coronet (I’d since converted to an automatic and gave to my son Dallas), and yesterday I ran to my old shop to bring it and some furniture I had stored there back to Beasley. I crated the transmission and wrapped it to be picked up.
BTW, if anyone needs a Long Pistol Grip V Gate shifter – with a button and Jerico Rods – I have one for $350.
Monday I took my 64 Imperial towards my bank, about 45 miles away, then I was going to replace the 25 year old tires. Almost there I started to smell something burning, so I pulled over. When I stopped I saw smoke rolling out from under the hood, so I turned off the motor and threw open the hood expecting to see a fire. It turned out the clutch on the AC locked up and burned up my belts. I cut the belts off, still had a water pump/fan belt – so I headed home without an alternator. Fortunately I made it. I have a mechanic friend working about 10-15 hours a week to help me get my cars ready to sell. He flushed the system and installed a new compressor, dryer and belts – converting to R 134. Still waiting on the expansion valve before the system can be charged.
So I took the Imperial for tires. The kid got the right side off and started hammering on all of the nuts on the left side with 160psi. When I saw him get the penetrating spray, I knew what was going on and went to tell him all Mopars before 1971 were left hand thread on left.
He had to take a breaker bar with a jack handle to break the nuts loose, but also broke a 9/16-18LH stud.
As a side note, I spent 3-hours trying to locate a LH stud and nut, and found Dorman stopped making years ago. They’re now made out of Unobtainium. I ordered 10 Right hand studs and nuts to convert.
After leaving the tire shop, I went to get a couple quotes to replace the exhaust. They were both about $1000. The price didn’t too much scare me, but the both refused to flange and give me new from the manifold back. They both wanted to stub, and I’m not doing $1000 to attach to 55 year old pipes. So while I was finding that you can no longer get LH studs, I did find and buy new stock exhaust system with resonators for $600 shipped. I also ordered new Gabriel shocks front and back.
Speaking of tires, I got new set of tires for my 67 Marlin. I was going to restore, but I’m just too busy to have another project, so I’m getting it running good, fixing everything, and selling. My mechanic bud spent about 25 hours fixing all of the electrics. It was butchered, but now all straightened out. All of the brakes straightened out, and motor now has an electronic ignition. Waiting on wiper arm and a brake hose, and then it will be ready to detail and list for sale.
Back to the Magnum, I made a gauge panel (see a previous post) and my mechanic bud is in the middle of wiring it in.
If anyone is interested in the Dakota Digital dash I had in it, its yours for $100 Fits all 75-79 B Bodies.
That’s pretty much it for this episode of “As the Shop Turns”. I’ve been so busy with this new business (lots more to do before I go for two weeks training January 7th) and the lake house, the shop has been a little neglected.
This week, in no particular order, the following was done.
My 81 Imperial Custom was gone through and anything needing attention was given attention, and listed for sale CHEAP!
Click Here for details.
Three solid days were spent with a guy coming two days a week to help sorting out the nightmare electrical system in my 67 Marlin. It had been butchered over the years and virtually nothing worked. The car is almost ready for a drive, then it will be torn down and restored. I want everything working first.
The rear window from Pro Glass has arrived, and will hopefully be in the Thug next week.
On the Screamin Woody, new Lexan arrive and I’ll start on that soon. The Fuel Pump is at Fuelab getting freshened up. I’ll put the fuel system on the car when I receive it back.
Also related to the wagon, the machinist called and said that my 9 month wait is over. I was having a sleeve hammered in and the block machined – except for decking – which will occur after rotating is ready. I took the Callies Crank to him. It’s gonna need to be turned down for stock Chevy rods, if it passes being Magnafluxed. I’ll have to wait on the crank before ordering rods, pistons and bearings. If I have to buy a new crank then I’ll go a different way. Also, its been so long that I don’t remember if the crank came out of the 540 or 580ci. They’ll have to measure for that too. I inventoried the other parts for the motor, and I have a set of 572 heads with new valves and springs; rockers with only 7 passes (before the Indy built motor with cheap ass rod bolts blew); Jessel belt Drive and Bullet Cam; Milodon Oil Pump and Aerospace Vacuum pump; Valley pan and the Indy bathtub Intake which is about to go to Florida for modifications. Damon should be getting to work assembling it as soon as I know what to order for pistons, rods and bearings; and receive. Outside chance car might make it to Bradenton in March – but I still have a lot of work and I’m only working in the shop three days a week because of a franchise I’m in the process of buying is taking a couple days a week of my time getting it set up.
I taught my Shop Rat how to use the polisher with “Fine Cut” polish and then cleaner wax to brighten up the paint on my 79 Magnum GT. Its another of my 30+ cars that I’m making ready to sell. Went through the car last month and fixed anything that wasn’t working right. Just need to detail the interior, photo and list for sale.
On my 78 Magnum XE, I’m replacing the Dakota Digital gauges I installed 18 years ago with custom white gauges in a modified stock panel. The above photos show it mocked up in the modified dash panel, and the dash wet sanded and painted. I’m letting the paint dry for a couple of days because of three coats (the last very wet) of black hammer toned, before putting gauges back in. CLICK HERE for the details.
Also in shop news:
Ginger is the name of my favorite Magnum. Twenty years ago I had two beautiful black Magnums, Ginger and Maryann. I gave Maryann to my now 31-year-old son for his 15th birthday. Sadly for ten plus years, it has sat disassembled, waiting for my son to restore. But back to my story, I recently have been freshening up Ginger. I replaced the original leather seats with more comfortable modern leather seats.
Click Here for more information on the car’s freshening up.
Now I’m replacing the digital dash I put in the car about 17 years ago with some nice white faced custom gauges.
This is the current dash with 17 Year Old Dakota Dash gauges. It is for sale if you’re interested.
So I bought an empty gauge panel on eBay, and ordered about $1000 worth of custom gauges close to the size of the holes. I bought a large Speedometer (with Tach) that works off GPS; and a large gauge that has Volts, Oil Pressure, Coolant Temp and Fuel Level to fill the two big holes. To fill the two smaller holes I bought an Oil Temp gauge and a clock.
The two big gauge holes with the sleeves in them were too small by about 1/16″, so I had to cut the welds attaching the sleeves to the panel and pop them out. Once out, the holes were now 1/8″ too big. On the small gauge holes, I had to cut the inset hoods off as the gauges were too shallow for the screw on collars that attach the gauges to the panel to screw on the back of them.
To make the big gauges fit, I made some spacers from 4″ schedule 80 PVC sleeves, by hand sawing about 3/8″ off the end and wet sanding until they were smooth and the same size.
I mocked the gauges up to make sure they fit prior to doing any sanding and painting on the gauge panel. They did, so I glued the spacers onto the panel.
I wet sanded the panel and masked off the idiot lights.
After painting gloss black, it looked too gloss and cheesy. Some of the glue around the rings (that I swore I’d sanded all of the way off) was also showing.
So I decided to leave the coves glossy black, but have the flat portion in a hammer tone black – to tone down the gloss and hide imperfections. So I taped off the coves, sanded some more on the glue around the rings, and wet sanded the areas to get the hammer tone paint.
I hit it with two light coats with an hour between, and then a very wet coat after another hour.
This is where I’m at right now. I’m out of town until Tuesday, which is little more than 48 hours to cure. I’ll pull the tape off Tuesday, mount the gauges – and I’ll post some photos of the finished product.
Last week at the shop, time was mostly focused on a “Fall Cleaning”, organization of the shop, and getting my 67 Marlin running and driving right. The 67 Marlin is a very rare car, one I spent almost twenty years looking for the right one. AMC made the Marlin for the years, 65-67. In 65 & 66 it was based on the compact Rambler Rouge/American, making it look pretty weird being that short. However, in 67 it was on the full size Ambassador platform. I bought this car about ten years ago and put it in the corner. A couple of weeks ago I pulled it out of the corner to start its restoration, which starts with getting it running right before tearing it down.
The brakes were replaced, and parts (carb gasket, starter, alternator fuel pump, Pertonix electronic ignition, battery…) ordered. Gas was drained and fresh gas put in; car finally was started and running Tuesday.
I want to restore the car in red with black roof and interior. I did a little walk around the car to document the before and have a reference. My Shop Rat felt it was a great time to discuss where he put the six thermostats from my lake house, that I replace with Nest thermostats.
I treated the Thug to a new car cover, and I ordered a new Pro Glass rear window – which ought to be at the shop by Monday.
The majority of my time was cleaning and organizing the shop.
That’s my story, and I’m sticking to it.
There are reports of an Old Man dressed in a Larry David costume demanding kids give him 70% of their candy!
In the last year, I’ve had mechanic help come in now and then to help out. Between he, I and my shop rat – things start to get out of place with good used parts, new parts, and complete garbage laying around – instead of put away properly. Getting stuff done has taken a priority to organization and putting parts, tools, and supplies away. Currently I’m going through the shop and putting stuff away, and trying to improve organization. Yesterday I spent the first couple of hours putting good parts away, and bad parts in garbage. There was a lot of both. Then I started reorganizing the electrical crash cart, which was a total mess. I got rid of the bad short wires thrown in the cart and wound up good short pieces, sorted and bagged connectors which, somehow got unsorted. I put switches and fuses; shrink tubes and relays; and connectors in cases.
I still have six other crash carts to straighten out, but this was the worst of them. On my stacker, the door cabinet was mounted very low because of some plates I used to mount a puck lock system.
It interfered with the golf cart when loaded. So it got mounted higher today after cutting a relief hole in the back.
Also in the stacker, the aircraft cargo track that got ripped up when I had to lock up the brakes with a car on the lift – had a new one cut, edges ground smooth, bent to fit beaver tail, and screwed down with new screws, lock washers and nuts.
The Magnum has been sitting for a couple of years. Recently the gas was drained, carb rebuilt and car running and tuned before replacing the carpet and seats. It drives great, but brakes were horrible. Originally it was suspected to have been the master cylinder – so that was removed and inspected. It was fine and the brakes bled and adjusted. Brakes still sucked so car was jacked up and both rear wheels still turned while brakes were applied. Since the they bled fine, it is suspected that the pistons are froze up inside from sitting so long – and ones are on the way.
Also in the “spent a lot of time and money fixing the wrong items” department, the hydraulic clutch on my 99 Drifter 1500 motorcycle was slipping. It got replaced last month. Now it has a slight delay engaging. Bleeding didn’t help so I bought a used master cylinder and a rebuild kit as new is made of unobtainium. It was rebuilt and put on, but same issue existed. the slave cylinder was bled, and same thing. The hose between the two was removed. While 150 psi of air was introduced at one end, less than ten psi comes out of the other end – meaning 20 years has degraded the hose and its collapsed. It too is made of unobtainium, so I’ll have to take someplace that can take a hose with banjo fittings.
So a lot of hours were spent wasting time yesterday. Heading to the lake for the weekend, so thrashing resumes next week.
He refused to touch it since it wasn’t wrapped in $100 bills!